During a mid-September road trip across Finland’s Lake Saimaa, the world’s enthusiasm for the internationally renowned autumn foliage, known locally as ruska, was met with a surprising twist: stubbornly green trees. Despite travelling with the intention of witnessing the brilliant fall colours before the onset of winter, visitors instead found a landscape still cloaked in predominantly summery shades.
Autumn in Southern Finland: A Surprisingly “Green” Journey
The journey kicked off with a drive from Helsinki to Lake Urajärvi’s Radalla resort. Tourists were greeted by immensely green landscapes, with only a hint of auburn on the leaf tips. Over hearty meals of garlic chicken sprinkled with chanterelles, a candid waitress advised the eager visitors that their timing was slightly premature for autumn splendour. Her prediction that sun, rather than the signature foliage hues, would dominate the next day’s forecast turned out to be accurate as they explored the idyllic Sahanlahti resort under blue skies.
Exploring Finland’s Unique Offerings
Visitors discovered that road travel in Finland offers a distinct experience, with picturesque lakes flanking the main routes. The Mustila Arboretum, Finland’s most expansive botanical garden, provided a leafy respite on the way to the next destination. The road trip also delivered serendipitous culinary experiences, such as a visit to Ollinmäki winery. Although Finnish vineyards focus on berry wines instead of grape varieties, a flight of six tastings, featuring a delightful white currant and berry wine, accompanied by elk soup and local cheese salad, provided a unique gastronomic adventure.
From Historical Taverns to Modern Resorts
The final stop, Järvisydän resort, presented a blend of history and luxury. Founded in 1654 by the Heiskanen family on land granted by the Russian tsar, the resort has evolved into a top-tier destination. With its vast reception under a replica Viking ship and structures crafted from stone and timber, Järvisydän offers diverse accommodation options, from glass-walled cabins to rustic log houses. Guests engaged in a berry and mushroom hunting expedition on Lake Saimaa, catching glimpses of rare wildlife like ringed seals and ospreys, complimented by a follow-up visit to the Hobbit-like spa featuring multiple saunas.
A Standout Finnish Experience
The trip concluded with positive impressions of Finland’s serene beauty, natural bounty, and culinary delights—regardless of the missing fall colours. The travel experience surpassed expectations, underscoring Finland’s appeal as a tranquil, sunlit escape in early autumn. Visitors learned the foliage arrivals are primarily anticipated in northern Finland by early to mid-September and reach the southern Lake Saimaa region by early October.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.