A unique pilgrimage in north-west Sweden draws adventurers annually to the remote Alkavare Chapel, blending spirituality and nature exploration. The journey, known as the Präststigen or “Priests’ Trail”, is a 37-mile path traversed by hikers to attend a special service held each summer on the final weekend of July.
Journeying Through Sweden’s Last Wilderness
Originating from Kvikkjokk, the trail follows an historic route once used by priests journeying to the 1788 chapel hidden in the Sami lands within Sarek National Park. This park, devoid of formal campsites and marked trails, is reputed for its rugged terrain and breathtaking vistas, offering intrepid trekkers the chance to experience true wild camping.
Sarek National Park, as part of the Laponia region, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996, recognising both its cultural and natural significance. The area’s indigenous Sami people, Europe’s last native population, maintain a deep-rooted connection with the land, reflected even in their word for the region, Sápmi. This area is crucial for their traditional reindeer herding, a practice that embraces modern techniques like snowmobiles and motorcycles but retains ancient knowledge of the land.
Guided Trek and Challenges
The expedition to Alkavare Chapel requires preparation. Potential hikers traverse into the Arctic Circle, starting from Luleå and passing through Jokkmokk, before crossing Sakkat Lake to reach the trail’s onset. Led by local expertise from guides such as Christian Heimrot of Laponia Adventures, participants embark on this challenging yet rewarding six-night pilgrimage.
Despite its daunting label as ‘wilderness’, Heimrot insists the area is a testament to a living landscape shaped over centuries by its inhabitants. As hikers ascend through birch woodland and traverse the rugged paths, the views open up to reveal striking peaks punctuated with botanical variety, from mountain gentians to wild angelica.
Historic Chapel and Sunday Service
Upon reaching the Alkavare Chapel, nestled near the glacial Alggajavvre Lake, participants are welcomed by priest Mogens Amstrup Jacobsen, who endures a taxing journey to lead the annual service. The chapel, originally established for the Sami under compelled Christianisation, stands as a testament to a complex history, while offering a resonant experience for today’s pilgrims.
The Sunday service, intimate at 11 congregants including the priest, is simple yet profound, featuring traditional elements tied to Sami culture. Afterwards, the group reflects with refreshments before completing their adventure, some continuing to Sweden’s proclaimed point of inaccessibility—a nod to Europe’s untouched remote landscapes.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.