British fashion icon Paul Smith has unveiled his memoir, Threads: My Life in Style, to coincide with his milestone 80th birthday celebrated in July. The book offers an intimate journey through his life, from his Nottinghamshire roots and lack of formal education to outfitting stars like Gary Oldman and David Bowie.
A Revolution in Underwear
During the 1970s, Paul Smith transformed the perception of men’s boxers from mundane to fashionable by introducing vibrant prints and patterns, including polka dots and stripes. This innovation pushed traditional boundaries and found their place in high fashion publications. Known for his subtle influence on men’s fashion, Smith describes this contribution as lightly encouraging rather than aggressively transforming the British man’s style sensibilities.
Stripes: A Double-Edged Sword
Smith reflects on his signature multi-stripe pattern, describing it as both a blessing and a burden. Initially born from financial limitations, the design became a runaway success. However, it has occasionally overshadowed his broader work, similar to how Calvin Klein is often reduced to being the underpants designer. This constant association with stripes has required creative navigation over the years.
The Novelty Sock Pioneer
Smith is credited with popularising novelty socks in the UK. After encountering distinct paperclip-designed socks in Japan during the 1980s, he introduced the concept to Britain. This innovation led to the sale of over 700,000 pairs annually, turning personalised socks into beloved gift items for many.
The Organised Chaos of His Office
Smith’s workspace is a testament to his eclectic tastes, filled with bicycles, vinyl records, books, and an assortment of rabbit figurines—a collection that began as a humorous commentary on luck. The abundance of rabbit memorabilia is fuelled by contributions from others around the world, including a persistent Italian admirer he has never met.
David Bowie’s Simple Complexity
Smith crafted custom suits for David Bowie, a musician known for his aversion to trivial conversation. Their friendship began after Bowie repeatedly visited Smith’s shop unannounced, eventually sharing tea and forming a connection; Bowie affectionately referred to Smith as “Smithy” during their interactions.
Accidental Instagram Sensation
Smith’s Los Angeles store on Melrose Avenue became a social media landmark due to its striking pink façade—unintentionally making it a popular site for Instagram enthusiasts. Thousands have flocked to capture the #pinkwall, marking it as one of California’s most photographed locations.
A Distinctive Voice Compared to Ralph Lauren
Smith recalls frustration in being repeatedly compared to Ralph Lauren during his early career. Highlighting differences, Smith notes a more humorous and informal approach compared to what he perceives as the grave stateliness of Lauren’s brand imagery—a contrast to the quintessentially English spirit Smith embodies.
An Unorthodox Papal Connection
Smith’s involvement in cycling returned to the foreground when he designed the official jerseys for the 2018 Giro d’Italia, including the pink “maglia rosa”. This garment received a unique endorsement—a blessing from Pope Francis, adding a spiritual dimension to one of Smith’s many collaborations.
Hard Work Through Success
Despite his achievements, Smith stays grounded through hands-on work. During the pandemic lockdown, he personally tackled a messy task in his office kitchen. Reflecting on whether other renowned designers like Giorgio Armani would do the same, Smith humorously accepted the task as part of his distinctive personal character.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.