Northern Puglia’s culinary delights, known for their authenticity and unique flavours, are drawing attention to the lesser-visited Barletta-Andria-Trani province. Despite being the birthplace of the popular cheese burrata, originating in Andria a century ago, the region’s numerous other gastronomic offerings often remain overshadowed by more touristy areas. Several local delicacies like olive oil, distinctive yellow tomatoes, and goat prosciutto also highlight this area’s rich culinary landscape.
The Creation of Burrata
Burrata, a symbol of the local cheese-making tradition, owes its invention to Lorenzo Bianchino who, about 100 years ago, crafted the cheese out of necessity. Snowbound outside Andria, Lorenzo used an old preservation technique to encase cream and mozzarella scraps in a shell of stretched-curd cheese, creating what is now known as burrata. This cheese is celebrated at Andria’s Caseificio Olanda, where visitors can witness traditional cheese-making demonstrations by Riccardo “Dino” Olanda, son of the founders.
A Gastronomic Tour
Exploring the province reveals an abundance of food experiences. In Barletta, visitors can enjoy the vibrant Italian lifestyle with its local cafes and shops. Trani, famed for its harbour and romanesque cathedral, comes alive early as fishers return with fresh catches to sell directly from their boats. The seafood, including monkfish and octopus, isn’t just local fare; it’s foundational to the area’s culinary identity.
Culinary Artisans
The region’s passion for high-quality ingredients and culinary craft is shared by producers like Luigi Lacerenza who runs Portento in Barletta. Here, guests experience local specialities in abundance, from goat’s cheese to unique pizzas. In Cerignola, Rosario Didonna at U’ Vulèsce partners with acclaimed fishers and farmers to craft delectable dishes such as prawn tartare and octopus with bean puree.
At Masseria Barbera, Nicola Barbera continues his ancestor’s farming legacy in the Alta Murgia national park. He passionately showcases the farm’s produce, including olive oil and over sixty varieties of tomato, playing a major role in the restaurant’s sustainable, farm-to-table dining experience.
Accommodations and Attractions
Tourism infrastructure in Barletta has grown slowly, but it offers truly local experiences. Antica Dimora is a well-regarded B&B residing in a renovated palazzo, while Lama di Luna, an eco-sustainable farm, offers a serene stay amid olive groves. Beyond gastronomy, the area offers plenty of cultural adventures including the Palazzo della Marra, hosting works of painter Giuseppe De Nittis.
More Dining Options
Beyond the renowned sites and eateries, Barletta’s culinary scene is enriched by long-standing establishments like Mosé bakery, known for its pastries, and Scoop in Canosa that emphasises seasonal local ingredients. Il Turracciolo in Andria offers fine dining with a regional flair, while Minervino’s A Sud dell’Anima delights diners with traditional techniques and bold dish presentations.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.