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October 25, 2026

Switzerland’s lake district explored by boat without ferries

A lesser-known region of Switzerland, the Jura and Three Lakes area, offers a tranquil escape with its stunning scenery, rich history, and local delicacies. The area — which includes the Jura Mountains and lakes Biel, Neuchâtel, and Murten — is accessible by regular ferry services, providing a unique alternative to more popular holiday destinations.

An Enchanting Island Getaway

St Peter’s Island, despite its seeming isolation, stands as a captivating stop within the region, best accessed by boat since it remains free of cars. The island, now connected to the mainland via a land bridge since the mid-19th century when lake levels were lowered, once hosted Jean-Jacques Rousseau who found his time there to be blissful. Alongside Rousseau, famed visitors like Alexandre Dumas and Goethe have been drawn in by the island’s charms.

The Ferry-Hopping Experience

The journey begins with a 15-minute ferry ride from La Neuveville or Ligerz, extending to 55 minutes from Biel. The nearby vineyards and picturesque towns such as Ligerz, La Neuveville, and Erlach enrich the journey. As travellers explore paths through chestnut trees, they might stumble upon historical remnants of Romans and monks who previously occupied the island.

Cultural and Culinary Delights

The region is renowned for its wine production, though most of it is consumed locally. A visit to Andrey Schafis in Ligerz introduces visitors to lemony Chasselas wine priced at 15 Swiss francs (£13.50) per bottle, accompanied by an offering of cheese and charcuterie. This experience can feel more Mediterranean than Alpine due to the locale’s ambiance.

Exploring the Jura Mountains

For those seeking an elevated view, the Vinifuni funicular transports guests through vineyards to Prêles beneath the looming Chasseral Mountain. This mountain, despite its gentle slopes, provides breathtaking views of verdant fields and neighboring lakes. Hiking trails lead adventurers to spots like an observation deck beneath a 120-metre telecommunications tower.

Finishing the Journey in Murten

The expedition closes with a boat trip stretching three hours and encompassing the Zihr and Broye canals to Lake Murten. Alongside vibrant sunflower fields and bird reserves, the medieval allure of the town of Murten presents itself, complete with spires, battlements, and a captivating vista of rooftops and chimneys. The ferry’s horn signals the end of an adventure, as one last heron takes to the sky.

The Jura and Three Lakes region promises an enriching experience of Switzerland, away from the usual tourists paths, immersed in the beauty of its landscapes and local culture.

Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.