In southern Norway, the Mjølkevegen cycle route offers cyclists an exhilarating journey through breathtaking landscapes nestled near the Jotunheimen National Park. Stretching 155 miles (250 km) from Vinstra in the north to Gol in the south, this historic path once served to transport milk from mountain farms to towns and has evolved into a favoured trail for gravel cyclists seeking respite from urban life.
A Historic Route with Modern Appeal
The Mjølkevegen, or Milky Way, gained prominence after World War II, driven by the need to connect isolated farms with burgeoning towns to meet the rising demand for fresh produce. Today, even though farming remains, the route attracts cyclists relying on drop-bar bikes suited to unpaved terrains, eager for a multi-day adventure amidst Norway’s rugged topography.
En Route Hospitality
Ruten Fjellstue, a charming traditional inn ideal for both summer biking and winter skiing, serves as a starting point for many cyclists. Located above the valley and painted in the iconic falun red, it offers a taste of Nordic hospitality. Berit and Arthur, owners of the establishment, extend warmth and hospitality to visitors, ensuring a comforting start with home-cooked meals.
At breakfast, diners are encouraged to craft their own packed lunch using provisions available, complete with a reusable beeswax wrap—a testament to the region’s sustainable practices. The cycling experience here is characterised by simple yet hearty meals including sandwiches, waffles with sour cream, and abundant cinnamon buns.
Testing Terrain and Scenic Sights
The journey begins with a descent followed by a detour due to a temporary road closure, introducing cyclists to the area’s challenging aspects. Silje Wilson, part of the cycling group, embodies the local spirit with her adept biking skills despite being new to gravel biking, and adds camaraderie to the adventure.
The descent towards Lake Vinstre offers remarkable views of northern Europe’s tallest ranges, accented by vibrant lakes and tiny, traditionally painted farmhouses. Continuing to Lake Bygdin, cyclists can enjoy hearty meals at Bygdin Høifieldshotel before embarking on the historic M/B Bitihorn ferry service, which has operated for over a century.
Integrating Culture with Nature
Among the notable stops is the Øye stave church, one of 28 surviving wooden churches in Norway, reconstructed from its original 11th-century remains. En route, locals recount tales of trolls and moving rocks attributed to mythical ‘long bones’, adding a cultural dimension to the ride.
Challenging Climbs and Rich Rewards
A daunting climb dubbed “the mother of all climbs” on Smådalen plateau tests cyclists’ endurance. The route, largely devoid of traffic, provides serene glimpses of wildlife amidst rugged peaks. The last stretch of the trail is marked by hills, ensuring cyclists are rewarded with spectacular views that justify the exertion.
The unpredictable weather, particularly in higher altitudes (800–1,300 metres), can result in sudden rain, demanding stamina and the right gear. A key cafe stop at the Slettefjell mountain pass offers respite before another steep ascent.
Enduring Memories
The cycle journey concludes with a downhill glide, rewarding cyclists with vistas of mighty mountains occasionally described as petrified trolls. The added effort needed to reach accommodations perched on hilltops is offset by the panoramic views that await every evening, affirming the saying that the best views are those earned through effort.
Jotunheimen Travel, together with local entities, provides structured three-day cycling tours from NOK 7,800 (£612) for two sharing, which include accommodations, meals, luggage transport, ferry tickets and CO2 offset services, with bike rentals available for an additional fee.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.