Demna Gvasalia, known for his transformative work at Balenciaga, has unveiled a fresh vision for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. Tasked with revitalising the brand amid declining sales, Demna’s latest catwalk show took place in a boldly designed Gucci shop setting on Friday, aiming to convey a complete artistic vision for the label.
Innovative Retail Concept
Held at a Milan convention centre redesigned to evoke the brand’s new boutiques, the event provided an immersive experience with its imposing stone columns and imitation Paonazzo marble. Attendees such as Romeo Beckham, Bianca Jagger, Cardi B, and Edward Norton viewed pieces from Demna’s past collections displayed on shelves, reinforcing the connection between fashion show and retail ambiance.
Understanding Gucci’s Core
Since his appointment in July, Demna has focused on distilling the essence of Gucci, encapsulating it as “luxury that wants to be seen.” Gucci, owned by Kering, saw its fortunes decline as the brand shifted away from the theatrical vision of former designer Alessandro Michele to a minimalist approach under Sabato de Sarno. This transition, which contributed to revenue halving over three years, necessitated a new creative direction.
Character-Driven Collection
The new collection, showcasing Demna’s personal vision, featured three archetypes: “the rebellious aristocrat,” “the snob,” and “the eccentric,” and highlighted the cross-generational appeal persistent within modern luxury fashion. Men’s garments included oversized tailoring and triple horse-bit belts, while the women’s line drew inspiration from “posh dress codes,” capturing Gucci’s equestrian roots and the opulence of the 90s Tom Ford era.
Aiming for Market Revival
Kering’s July report indicated positive signs of growth, crediting Demna’s collections for the uptick. However, the brand faces continued pressure, with Kering’s CEO Luca de Meo emphasizing the need for Gucci to remain recognisable and culturally relevant to reinvigorate consumer interest and noticeably boost sales.
Nod to Gucci’s Heritage
Paying homage to Gucci’s history, Demna’s designs reimagined elements from the brand’s iconic past, such as Savoy hotel links and 90s provocativeness, into modern interpretations. The show concluded with striking examples of “nocturnal glamour” featuring signature dramatic silhouettes, signalling a promising directional shift for the storied fashion house.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.