Brescia, a city nestled in the Lombardy region of Italy, was once overlooked by tourists who favoured nearby destinations such as Milan or Verona. Hidden in its history-laden streets, the city offers a vibrant mix of culture and tradition, largely due to its proud residents who are keen to share its charm with the world.
Exploring Carmine’s Transformation
Behind its main roads lies the Carmine district, an area once reputed to be riddled with crime. Now, it is a lively quarter filled with bars and restaurants. Locals like Elena and Andrea, the manager of i Dù dela Contrada, illustrate its development, with Andrea reminiscing about its past when “twenty years ago, this was an area for prostitutes and thieves. Now it’s safer but still vibrant, and growing.”
A Day of Encounters
Visitors to Brescia can enjoy a winding journey through its streets, where each local interaction opens a door to the next recommendation. A visit to Ostería dei Mercanti and its characterful host, Piera, reveals Brescia’s cherished aperitivo, pirlo. The day unfolds through introductions to other local gems such as the historical Piazza della Loggia, with a notable clock and its life-size automatons dating back to 1581.
Culinary and Historical Offerings
Stops along the way present opportunities to savour local delicacies — from pizzas at Lestro to dishes like casoncelli and malfatti at Osteria del Savio. A notable addition to the culinary experience includes a lesson in pizza creation featuring the local cheese, bagòss. Complementing the taste journey, Brescia’s Teatro Grande’s opulent setting serves up both visual and historical indulgences, citing Puccini’s recovery there after a La Scala rejection.
Reflecting on Brescia’s Rich History
The medieval Piazza della Loggia holds poignant reminders of the city’s more turbulent past, notably a memorial for victims of a 1974 bombing. These remnants echo Brescia’s significant role during Italy’s tumultuous political history, spanning from Mussolini’s era to the “years of lead” during which violence peaked from various ideological factions.
A Drink in the Franciacorta
Beyond the city, the Franciacorta wine region offers a taste of sparkling wines cultivated on volcanic soils. Despite their high quality, these wines remain a local delicacy, largely undiscovered by international tourists.
Island Life in Monte Isola
A short journey away, Monte Isola on Lake Iseo extends a different charm. Revered for its warm atmosphere and craftsmanship, it remains a significant place for professions passed down through generations, such as boat-making at the Archetti boatyard, where pride in craft matches the warmth of its people.
Brescia hosts an abundance of hidden treasures waiting to be explored, its history and cultural boons making a compelling case for a pause in this often bypassed Italian city.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.