The appearance of British Prime Minister Andy Burnham in Derbyshire this week generated interest when he was spotted wearing braces beneath his suit. These navy, button-on braces were discreetly hidden, visible only when he unbuttoned his jacket while interacting with the public. This fashion choice connects to larger themes of class, tradition, and modernity, which are intricately linked to Burnham’s political image.
A Tailored Statement
Burnham opted for a £595 navy suit from Oliver Brown, a tailor known for its traditional craftsmanship, with shops in London and Chester. The suit, known as the Eaton, is crafted from merino wool produced by Yorkshire’s Alfred Brown and is tailored to fit. Despite the tailor confirming the suit’s origin, they clarified that the braces were not provided by them. Interestingly, the suit’s trousers lack belt loops, though they do have side fasteners, making the functional need for braces questionable. According to fashion historian Chloe Chapin, the choice is more stylistic than practical.
Fashion Meets Politics
Burnham’s choice to wear braces may convey various signals. Historically, braces have symbolized subversion and class conflict. Originating in 1700s France and popularised in Britain in the 1820s, they took a subversive turn during the 1960s and 70s before becoming iconic in the high-consumption culture of the 1980s. Their diverse associations—ranging from working-class pride to 1980s excess—present a nuanced image of both tradition and rebellion.
Balancing Identity and Tradition
As a politician who has often highlighted his transformation from a Westminster ally to “king of the north,” Burnham may be using braces to symbolise a shift towards formality and tradition. Political insider sources indicate that Burnham’s clothing choices are deliberate, balancing professionalism with a desire to stand out from typical political figures. As the ‘TikTok PM’, Burnham is acutely aware of how his visual presence impacts public perception, reinforcing the idea that his attire is a calculated component of his broader political strategy.
Fashion’s Dual Nature
Ultimately, the choice of braces highlights the tension between fashion’s practical and aesthetic purposes. It mirrors Burnham’s approach to leadership: a blend of functionality and style. Whether this choice signals political intent or personal preference, it encapsulates the dynamic identity of modern political figures who navigate the intersections of fashion and public service.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.