Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, delivered a fresh take on the brand’s iconic surrealist aesthetics with his latest collection at the Paris Fashion Week. Known for its distinct approach, Schiaparelli remains a smaller entity among the fashion giants, yet its influence is unmistakable. The brand’s revenue has grown significantly, from $6 million in 2020 to an estimated $100 million this year, reflecting its rising prominence.
Innovative Simplicity on the Catwalk
The newest collection showcased at the Paris event featured stretch cocktail dresses, introducing a touch of simplicity previously unseen in Schiaparelli’s offerings. Roseberry, who is currently preparing for the New York Marathon, infused a sports-like agility into his designs, saying he is in his “aerodynamic era.” Despite the streamlined approach, the collection stayed true to the brand’s roots with bold elements, such as gold-foiled accents and revealing fabrics. The show concluded with exquisite dinner jackets embellished with embroidery inspired by the Schiaparelli archives.
American Flair in Paris
Accompanying Roseberry’s work was the presence of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who made their mark on the Paris Fashion Week lineup after taking creative reins at Loewe. They infused the brand with a unique American charm, balancing artistic depth with an approachable playfulness. The duo’s designs featured a basketball vest-inspired silhouette for slip dresses and creatively interpreted Capri pants, blending the “ease of American pragmatism” with hints of Spanish culture.
Schiaparelli’s Enduring Legacy
Elsa Schiaparelli, the brand’s founder, was a pivotal figure in the surrealism movement, a legacy that continues to inspire today’s collections. Collaborations with luminaries like Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau have cemented Schiaparelli’s place in fashion history—a narrative showcased at London’s V&A museum exhibition. Stars like Kylie Jenner and Bella Hadid have further propelled the brand into modern-day fame, showcasing Schiaparelli’s designs in viral moments that resonate across social media platforms. Designer Roseberry remains confident in the brand’s unique voice, emphasizing, “what we show on the catwalk is exactly what we sell.”
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.