In Sweden’s eastern regions of Gästrikland and Hälsingland, chefs and producers are reconnecting with local ingredients, transforming the way their communities view food production and consumption. Former head chef Stefan Johansson has been a key figure in this movement at Högbo Brukshotell, located just two hours north of Stockholm. He shifted focus from globally sourced ingredients to those grown and harvested locally, driven by a question from a journalist years ago.
Local Ingredients Initiative
The change at Högbo Brukshotell began with a project known as Made in Högbo, which initially focused on integrating lamb rearing and butchery on-site. This evolved to include vegetable farming, with greenhouses and kitchen gardens becoming integral to the hotel’s culinary offerings. These efforts create not only high-quality, locally-sourced meals but also job opportunities for those in need. The project has welcomed immigrants, like refugees from Myanmar and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, who contribute by growing unique crops and diversifying local produce.
Community Connections
Travelling through these regions reveals a tapestry of food artisans and businesses committed to showcasing regional bounty. At Gammelstilla, a former ironworks area transforms into a whisky distillery, while The Old Mill restaurant in Gästrike-Hammarby harnesses locally sourced ingredients for its award-winning offerings.
Bergmans Fisk in Norrsundet, operated by a fishing family with a century-long tradition, has successfully adapted to modern demands, opening a restaurant serving their own catch and planning for expansion. Their efforts underscore the necessity of evolution to preserve customs.
Sustainable Practices
Anna Larsson, a seventh-generation miller at Teve Kvarn, oversees a historic mill that processes regional grain, underlining sustainable, high-quality flour production. Adjacent to the mill, Tevsjö distillery – managed by Anna’s husband Jonas – utilises these grains to produce spirits powered by hydroelectric energy, demonstrating eco-friendly innovation.
Chef Tobias Annerhult at Järvsö Lanthandel embodies a philosophy of sourcing only what the area naturally provides, using minimal external spices and avoiding waste. This dedication includes preserving and fermenting seasonal produce, ensuring year-round availability while maintaining creativity.
Culinary Education
Annerhult also extends his philosophy through interactive cooking classes. With locally sourced ingredients like cheese, grains and vegetables, participants explore traditional methods, preparing dishes that reflect regional diversity and sustainability.
These efforts across Sweden’s eastern areas highlight the growing trend of embracing local resources, reconnecting communities to their culinary heritage. This approach not only answers the previously vexing question posed to Stefan Johansson but also offers a deeper connection to these lands, through the foods that flourish within them.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.