Verona offers a unique take on the Italian tradition of aperitivo, blending social culture with typical regional flavours. As I navigated the city’s offerings, I experienced a spectrum of venues and wines, illustrating the rich variety within this quintessentially Italian phenomenon.
The Morning Here Starts With Aperitivo
Unlike other Italian cities, Verona embraces aperitivo as a part of its daily routine, noticeable even as early as 9.30am. A local woman savoured a bianchetto, while others opted for spritzes and a shared bottle of sparkling wine, capturing my attention and prompting my exploration of this cultural practice.
Caffè Monte Baldo
Opened in 1909, Caffè Monte Baldo offers a welcoming experience with its impressive array of over 30 wines by the glass. Priced between €5.50 and €11, I selected an alta langa, a sparkling wine from Piedmont, complemented by tartine costing €4.60 each. The baccalà mantecato and boiled egg with anchovy delivered on flavour, with the venue’s local feel exemplified by a regular being served his “usual” as he walked in. 8.5/10
Antica Bottega del Vino
Known for its extensive wine selection, this institution maintains a formal ambiance. I arrived as the €3 tartine counter was freshly stocked, opting for an €8 franciacorta paired with pancetta coppata and gorgonzola cream tartine. While the servings were ample, the bread was somewhat standard. Despite the bustling atmosphere, aperitivo tables remain designated unless it’s exceptionally busy. 6.5/10
Tor-Tor
Recommended by a sommelier, Tor-Tor specialises in natural wines, including a variety from Veneto. I chose a €7 orange wine, served with complimentary popcorn, and ordered polpette and olives for €2 and €1.50, respectively. The wine and food were both delightful, and the venue attracted a primarily local clientele, engaging deeply with wine culture. 8/10
Osteria Ai Preti
Located across the Adige river, Ai Preti presents a neighbourhood vibe with its classic interior. Here, tartine cost €2 and the horse meat polpetta even less, alongside a €4 glass of wine. As locals filled the space, the evening atmosphere felt genuinely unwinding. 7/10
Velvet
The setting in part of a 15th-century palazzo makes Velvet a refined choice for aperitivo. With its elegant crowd and varied wine list, I opted for a €12 negroni, complemented by complimentary snacks like plantain crisps and pastries. The establishment provided a stylish reprieve before dinner. 8/10
Osteria da Morandin
A second visit to Morandin affirmed its reputation, despite the heat and a lengthy afternoon closure. With wines ranging from €2.50 to €6 and an extensive cicchetti selection including €1.30 meatballs and €1.80 tartine, the hospitality and flavours ensured a memorable dining experience. The local clientele reassures of its cultural authenticity. 10/10
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.