The Tuscan archipelago reveals a blend of history, beauty, and diversity, offering visitors a unique way to experience the contrast between its islands and mainland Tuscany. This group of seven islands, positioned between Tuscany’s coast and Corsica, is part of a protected national park and offers distinct experiences, with Montecristo and Gorgona accessible only through limited guided tours. Here, we focus on exploring five other noteworthy islands.
Elba: A Year-Round Destination
As the third-largest Italian island, Elba stands out for its vibrant tourist scene, melding Napoleonic history with stunning landscapes and charming seaside towns. It’s famously known for Napoleon’s 1814 exile at the Palazzina dei Mulini, but its historical depth extends with 16th-century Medici fortifications and ancient Roman-influenced medieval hill towns.
Beach enthusiasts frequent the white-pebble shores of Sansone and Capo Bianco near Portoferraio, or the sandy stretches of Fetovaia and Cavoli under Monte Capanne. Marina di Campo attracts watersports enthusiasts, with windsurfing and sailing schools spread across the island’s resorts.
For hiking fans, the 36-mile (58km) Grande Traversata Elbana trek showcases mountain ridges and traditional villages from Cavo to Pomonte or Patresi, ideally trekked in spring or autumn.
Dining and Staying: In Portoferraio, savour handmade pasta at Ristorante da Gianni, while Da Piero offers beachfront dining in Marina di Campo. Accommodation ranges from eco-conscious Hotel Montemerlo near Fetovaia to the historic Indarsena in Portoferraio. Ferries from Piombino direct visitors to Portoferraio.
Giglio: The Charming Island
Despite its compact 21 sq km, Giglio brims with charm, boasting three villages, quiet coves, and terraced vineyards. Vehicle access is restricted in August, preserving the island’s tranquillity, though buses and taxis facilitate movement.
From Giglio Porto, explore sequestered coves and hilltop views, or wander the cobbled lanes of Giglio Castello’s medieval village. Giglio’s beaches vary—Campese is known for its reddish sand and historic tower views, Cannelle has white sands and clear waters, while Arenella blends sandy stretches with granite boulders perfect for snorkelling.
Dining and Lodging: For seafood, try spaghetti with sea urchin at Ristorante Doria in Giglio Porto. Accommodations like B&B La Vela near Giglio Porto and Le Poste di Simplicio overlooking Campese Bay offer serene stays. Reach Giglio via ferry from Porto Santo Stefano.
Capraia: A Hiker’s Haven
Wild and remote, Capraia sits over 20 miles (33km) north-west of Elba. With limited transportation, it’s best explored on foot. Trails wind through sea cliffs and historic Genoese forts, providing a hikers’ paradise with landmarks such as Cala Rossa and Torre dello Zenòbito.
Though few, beaches like Cala San Francesco and Cala del Ceppo invite swimmers, while Spiaggia della Mortola is accessible via taxi boats.
Local Flavours and Accommodation: Il Carabottino provides local seafood menus in Capraia village, while Il Pigghiolo offers a modern twist on island flavours. Limited accommodation includes La Mandola Eco Hostel, ideal for nature enthusiasts.
Capraia is accessible by a 1 hour 45-minute ferry from Livorno.
Pianosa: Preserving Tranquility
Pianosa’s visitor limits maintain its serene environment. Ferries offer restricted access, supplemented by authorised tours. Historical sites include Roman ruins and old prison compounds, with Casa dell’Agronomo and the geological museum exploring Pianosa’s rich heritage.
Guided activities like walks, cycling, and kayaking are popular, with swimming limited to Cala Giovanna.
Dining and Staying: At Da Brunello in the harbour village, relish island-grown produce. Albergo Milena provides the island’s sole accommodation. Visitors can reach Pianosa from Elba with authorised excursions or Toremar ferries from Piombino.
Giannutri: A Car-Free Escape
Giannutri’s serene, car-free landscape contrasts Elba’s bustling atmosphere. Limited facilities include a single restaurant-cafe, with visitors advised to bring provisions. The coastline promises diving opportunities within a protected marine reserve, and a tour of the Roman villa offers a touch of history.
Dining and Lodging: La Vela Giannutri is the only dining option, highlighting seafood. Accommodation consists of A Casa Diana, complemented by a few holiday rentals. Giannutri can be accessed via Maregiglio ferry or seasonal excursions from Porto Santo Stefano, with connections to Giglio in summer.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.
