An intriguing blend of nature and art awaits hikers on the Refuges d’Art trail in Haute-Provence, France. This 150km path, devised by the acclaimed British land artist Andy Goldsworthy, allows participants to immerse themselves fully in the landscape and artwork. Over a 10-day journey, walkers can spend nights in seven unique cabin refuges, each featuring site-specific installations by Goldsworthy.
An Artistic Adventure in Nature
The trail begins in the lively market town of Digne-les-Bains, a central spot within the Unesco geopark of Haute-Provence. It serves not only as a launchpad for hikers but also teases the adventure with attractions like the Alexandra David-Neél museum. This site commemorates the eponymous explorer’s daring treks, inspiring those embarking on their own journeys. Equipped with keys from the museum, hikers are ready to explore three of the trail’s shelters over a four-day trek covering approximately 45km.
Art and Comfort at High Altitudes
The refuges themselves were restored from old shepherd huts and farmhouses, offering rustic, off-grid accommodation. Goldsworthy enriched each with a unique artwork, giving hikers the sensation of living within art. At the first refuge, La Forest, hikers find a cylindrical obelisk made of light grey stone, which changes with natural light and embodies a sense of the sacred.
Community and Challenge on the Trail
The expedition is as much about camaraderie as it is about art. As one hiker, Sasha, notes through shared experiences like playing cards and dining by candlelight, group dynamics reveal no members are ‘der salzlose’ or ‘extrawurst’— German slang terms for blandness and demanding more, respectively. However, they learn the trail’s surprises, such as unexpectedly challenging paths, can prove taxing.
Navigating Nature’s Sculptures
The second refuge, Le Vieil Esclangon, is surrounded by awe-inspiring vistas and hosts an earthen serpent sculpture shaped by mud, evoking natural forms. Goldsworthy’s work often utilises local materials, blending seamlessly with the environment. The trail’s artistry becomes even more vivid in the warm glow of a fire inside the refuge as hikers rest after another day’s exertions.
Encounters of the Natural Kind
At La Ferme Belon, hikers discover a juxtaposition of massive stone arches and a colony of bats. The refuge offers beautiful sleeping platforms if one can look past the nocturnal neighbours. However, any discomfort is mitigated by a backup plan involving a welcoming B&B, a pizza dinner, and reflective conversations on the trek.
Goldsworthy encapsulates the spirit of the journey: “To sleep in a sculpture is a wonderful idea.” It signifies the melding of art and life, offering visitors an intimate connection with his creations. Having returned the keys to Digne-les-Bains, the hikers conclude their artistic voyage by soaking in the local hot springs, already considering the possibilities of the next adventure.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.