A journey along Dorset’s Jurassic Coast offers much more than just beautiful views, combining history, literature, and geology into a memorable experience. By taking the water taxi from West Bay to Lyme Regis, visitors can enhance their hike into a circular journey, starting with a boat ride instead of a traditional walk.
An Enchanting Boat Ride with a Storied Past
The adventure begins at West Bay. As the water taxi, a rigid inflatable boat known as a Rib, departs, passengers are treated to vistas of Chesil Beach stretching towards Portland, and Lyme Regis to the west. The boat’s skipper, Nick, shares insights about the coastal history, including the perilous seas of Lyme Bay, which are dotted with shipwrecks from fishing boats to those sunk during both World Wars.
One poignant historical event is the torpedo attack on HMS Formidable in 1915 during World War I, resulting in fewer than 200 survivors from a crew of 750. In World War II, the area played a critical role in the lead-up to D-Day, with various American personnel losing their lives during Exercise Tiger, a dress rehearsal for the Normandy landings later impacted at the Battle of Lyme Bay.
Exploring Lyme Regis and Literary Echoes
Disembarking at the iconic Cobb in Lyme Regis, visitors walk in the footsteps of literature giants. This harbour wall is notable for its appearances in Jane Austen’s “Persuasion” and John Fowles’ “The French Lieutenant’s Woman”, whose film adaptation famously featured Meryl Streep casting a dramatic silhouette against the bay. The transformation of Lyme’s streets during filming included temporary 19th-century facades, some of which lingered long enough to become part of the town’s lore.
A Walk Through Time and Terrain
The 10-mile trek back to West Bay begins with a shift inland, away from the unstable Dorset coast. The erosion-prone cliffs have necessitated a detour through a local golf course, recalling an incident from 1725 when author Henry Fielding fled along an erstwhile coastal road after attempting to elope with his cousin Sarah.
The path is punctuated with landmarks such as a sculpture of Mary Anning, a pioneering palaeontologist from Lyme Regis, depicted with her fossil discovery, Ichthyosaurus anningae. Anning’s contribution to science, acknowledged at Lyme Regis, is fittingly immortalised in Greta Berlin’s wilder effigy on the path, which complements the rugged surroundings.
Charmouth to West Bay: A Historical Trek
Charmouth, a quaint village without a harbour, is perfect for novice swimmers and paddleboarders. From here, the path aligns with the Monarch’s Way, the escape route of Charles II post-English Civil War. This demanding section to West Bay is energised by Tom Cox’s historical anecdotes and the homemade pasties he shares, enhancing the journey.
Approaching Golden Cap, the highest point along the south coast at 191 metres, offers panoramic views over Lyme Bay. The trek descends past the remains of St Gabriel’s Church, long abandoned but once utilised by smugglers, before reaching the Anchor Inn at Seatown for a pause.
The final stretch to West Bay navigates frequent path redirections due to cliff falls, including one noted in 2020. West Bay, formerly known as Bridport Harbour and rebranded to attract tourists, marks the journey’s end. Although the trains are gone, the charm endures with railway carriages repurposed as dining venues and the town’s timeless allure.
For those wishing to experience this historic route, OS Explorer 116 (Lyme Regis & Bridport) covers the walk. With summer water taxis and year-round bus services available, there’s ample opportunity to revisit the past along Dorset’s extraordinary coast.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.