Maria Grazia Chiuri Finds Inspiration in the 1970s for Latest Fendi Collection
Returning to her Italian roots has sparked creativity for Maria Grazia Chiuri in her role at Fendi, shifting away from the structured style she adhered to in Paris. In anticipation of her Milan fashion week showcase, Chiuri expressed feeling rejuvenated by her return to Rome. Her approach to fashion has lightened, albeit with a hint of rebellion that her daughter might not entirely endorse.
Chiuri’s latest ready-to-wear collection for Fendi goes beyond just showcasing garments; it represents the continuation of a broader vision she’s developing for the brand. Renowned for championing women’s creativity during her tenure at Dior, her latest muse is Raffaella Carrà, the iconic Italian singer and performer.
Raunchy and revolutionary in her own right, Carrà was a trailblazer of her time. She was known for her daring fashion choices and empowering, risqué lyrics, with one of her hits encouraging women to take the lead in romance. Carrà passed away in 2021 at the age of 78, leaving behind a legacy as a feminist icon who embraced liberation through style.
On the runway, Carrà’s spirit was channelled into designs echoing the 1970s, featuring ethereal dresses, lace bras, tailored waistcoats, and retro fur accessories. Male models strutting in shirts unbuttoned to the waist paid homage to her bold influence.
Meanwhile, during Milan fashion week, Vogue stole the spotlight with its grand-scale event in the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The extravaganza featured notable appearances, such as Jennifer Lopez in Dolce & Gabbana and Cardi B in vintage Versace. Performers, including Alicia Keys and Roberto Bolle, added to the high-energy presentation.
This move is part of Vogue’s strategy to pivot towards live events amid a downturn in print revenue. Following the financial success of last year’s Vogue World: Hollywood in Los Angeles, the Milan event underscores a growing reliance on partnerships with tech titans such as Meta Glasses and OpenAI. Even as technology featured conspicuously with dancing robots in the finale, the celebration was firmly rooted in the rich tradition of Italian fashion.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.