Jonathan Anderson unveils his latest collection with Dior, blending traditional romance with modern urban style in a dramatic Parisian setting. The presentation, held in the Tuileries Garden, marked a year since Anderson took on his significant role at Dior, and it reflected his pursuit of an innovative “vibe”, beyond the brand’s historical image.
A Transformative Parisian Experience
The show transformed the gardens with a grand staging that included a circular pond surrounded by strategically placed trees. These trees, creating an enchanting misty atmosphere, were backed by the resources of LVMH and will be replanted in the garden after the event. Anderson aimed to captivate with silhouettes that echoed the grandeur of Dior’s historic “New Look” from 1947.
Exploring New Silhouettes
Anderson’s collection commenced and closed with a striking design: a short, layered chiffon skirt reflecting light beautifully, paired with soft jackets or layered sheer tops. In between these bookends, a diverse array of garments — including bronze metallic trousers, opulent double-breasted coats, and strapless cocktail dresses — showcased his reluctance to be confined to a single aesthetic.
Romantic Evolution Inspired by Austen
Anderson acknowledged the challenge of reshaping perceptions of Dior, suggesting that gradual evolution is key. He connected the concept of romance, an intrinsic part of Dior, with the literary world of Jane Austen, illustrating his refined and thoughtful approach. His reinterpretation of romanticism promises a sophisticated journey for both the brand and its customers.
Redefining Chic Streetwear
Chic elements crafted for street style also appeared in the show. These included oversized shirts, layered sheer fabrics, fringed edges, and vibrant colours, presenting a sophisticated take on what currently populates fashionable streets around Tuileries. Anderson emphasized that his intent was to imagine looks he’d love to see worn in everyday life.
Artistry in Details
Luxury was infused in the minutiae, with elements like Murano glass buttons, faux fur-lined lapels on jackets, and reinvented houndstooth patterns in chiffon. Additionally, Anderson revisited past Dior innovations, such as zippered sandals from the John Galliano era. His playful approach was summed up with the notion of disrupting the brand to discover new directions, a strategy ensuring the collection remains anything but monotonous.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.