Pope Leo XIV has been recognised as a fashion icon, earning a spot on Vanity Fair’s esteemed best-dressed list for 2026. At 70, the pontiff has captivated the fashion world with his unique approach to papal style, marking the first time in a decade the magazine has released such a list. Renowned for his innovative sartorial choices, he has drawn attention with his combination of a white cassock and a pair of Nike trainers.
Vanity Fair’s editorial team, including style correspondent José Criales-Unzueta, praised Leo for his distinctive sense of American fashion. The Chicago-born pope’s style blends bespoke papal attire with vintage accessories, including his preference for simple black oxford shoes instead of traditional red papal slippers. His public appearances are complemented by a discontinued Swiss-made quartz watch and his own weathered briefcase. Notably, in June 2025, he wore a White Sox baseball cap during a public audience in St Peter’s Square, exhibiting his connection to both his roots and contemporary fashion.
The Church’s Contemporary Influence
Pope Leo’s daring fashion choices resonate particularly with the younger generation, including Gen Z, aligning with the Catholic church’s strategy to reposition itself as a modern institution. Vanity Fair’s global editorial director, Mark Guiducci, likened the magazine’s focus to a “pantheon” celebrating personalities, a vision that complements the church’s ambition for contemporary relevance.
Academic perspectives endorse Leo’s influence. Northwestern University’s religious studies professor Robert Orsi highlighted his appeal to younger audiences, not only through fashion but also through his progressive stances on topics like artificial intelligence and peace. Meanwhile, University of Edinburgh’s Carol Richardson noted that the pope, with a strong social media presence, is likely aware and amused by his fashion icon status, appreciating the acknowledgment of his dynamic schedule that justifies his practical choice of footwear.
The Intersection of Fashion and Faith
The fusion of religious symbolism and fashion is not new, as seen in past collaborations between designers like Christian Lacroix and heaving fashion exhibitions at places such as the Met. However, the papacy’s vast symbolic influence continues to inspire designers, says Criales-Unzueta. Pope Leo is positioned in Vanity Fair’s “originals” division, celebrating figures with a “singular point of view” alongside others like Spike Lee and Björk.
Leo’s viral moment last May, sporting Nike trainers in a Vatican documentary, underscored the pontiff’s cultural impact, mirroring the sensation sparked by artificial intelligence imagery of Pope Francis. Criales-Unzueta acknowledges this moment as a turning point, where Leo became a subject of discussion amidst fashion enthusiasts. The trainers were soon identified as a retro-style model from the 1970s, further cementing his status as a style icon in various publications including Vogue and the New York Times by the year’s end.
As the pontiff continues to captivate the public with his unexpected fashion choices, Orsi suggests that Leo’s trainers express a readiness and humility, portraying him as an approachable and agile leader. The symbolism extends to his role, presenting him as a figure poised to adapt and address the needs of his time.
Reporting based on coverage first published by theguardian.com.