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October 26, 2026

Shein faces challenges before stock market debut

Fast-fashion titan Shein is poised to embark on its initial public offering (IPO) journey, with its shares listing in Hong Kong on Tuesday. The decision comes after unsuccessful attempts to go public in the United States and the United Kingdom due to scrutiny over labour practices and environmental concerns.

Shein, formerly pegged at a valuation nearing $100 billion, now stands at approximately a quarter of that figure. This devaluation reflects challenges such as intensified market competition and global trade disputes. Despite these hurdles, Shein’s popularity, particularly among younger consumers, remains robust, thanks to its model of sourcing the latest fashion trends at low costs through a comprehensive network of Chinese manufacturing partners.

The company’s IPO in Hong Kong has led to the sale of shares at a figure below their expected high, collecting 13.6 billion Hong Kong dollars ($1.7 billion). This has resulted in the firm being valued at $26.3 billion on the stock exchange.

Global Presence and Business Challenges

While Shein originated in China, it is now headquartered in Singapore and extends its e-commerce reach to over 150 countries. The firm disclosed that it has 281 million active users, who collectively placed over a billion orders by the end of March 2026. Nonetheless, its rapid growth and controversial practices concerning the environment and human rights have attracted significant scrutiny, alongside increasing regulatory pressures from the US and the European Union regarding cost-efficient imports.

Shein’s listing represents the largest in Hong Kong this year and serves as a gauge for investor sentiment toward the fast-fashion sector. Unlike many of its peers, Shein stands alone as an e-commerce entity distinct from broader corporate groups, according to fashion industry expert Louise Deglise-Favre of GlobalData.

The Journey Toward a Hong Kong IPO

Initially, Shein’s IPO ambitions targeted the US, where the company enjoys its largest market. However, resistance from US lawmakers, citing forced labour allegations, thwarted these plans. To counteract these claims, Shein has adopted a zero-tolerance stance toward forced labour, though similar resistance was met when the company considered an IPO in London.

In 2025, Shein turned its focus to Hong Kong with support from Chinese authorities granted by July. Ashley Dudarenok, founder of ChoZan, a Chinese market intelligence firm, noted that Hong Kong is becoming the most viable option for Chinese companies excluded from Western exchanges. Shein’s relocation of its headquarters to Singapore was a strategic move intended to mitigate political obstacles but ultimately did not secure necessary endorsements.

Facing Economic and Regulatory Pressures

Shein is navigating a shifting environment fraught with trade complexities and regulatory examinations. A notable financial hit arose in July, with the company reporting a $99 million loss as American sales faltered following changes to the de minimis rule that previously exempted small packages from import duties. Additionally, the European Union imposed a €3 tax on minor imports.

Current geopolitical events, such as the Iran conflict, have further complicated Shein’s operations, affecting demand, cost structures, and delivery schedules. Nonetheless, analysts see potential for resilience in Shein, considering its expansive supply capabilities and market reach.

Despite a decline in valuation, indicative of foundational challenges, the company is seen as possessing a “formidable supply chain,” as noted by Deglise-Favre. Going public will require Shein to demonstrate its ability to maintain profitability amid enhanced regulation, tariff implementation, and escalating costs related to customer acquisition, highlighted Dudarenok.

Reporting based on coverage first published by bbc.co.uk.