Supermarkets are facing criticism for swapping traditional Atlantic mackerel with a cheaper alternative, jack mackerel, a move described by consumer groups as “skimpflation”. This change is driven by declining Atlantic mackerel stocks due to overfishing, and the need for more sustainable solutions.
Why the Shift to Jack Mackerel?
The dwindling mackerel resources have compelled companies like Princes, which supplies major supermarkets, to turn to jack mackerel—a more sustainable option sourced from Chile. This fish is significantly less expensive, costing only about a third of its Atlantic counterpart, as reported by Undercurrent’s seafood market data. Lidl has also embraced this shift, selling jack mackerel under its own brand, citing its commitment to responsible sourcing.
Reactions and Concerns
Consumers have expressed dissatisfaction with the new product’s taste and texture and raised issues regarding the clarity of labelling. Sue Davies from Which? warned that such downgrades in staple foods could mislead consumers into purchasing items of lesser nutritional quality—jack mackerel has only half the omega-3 and one-third of the vitamin B12 found in Atlantic mackerel.
Princes maintains that its jack mackerel offerings are clearly labelled and have satisfied extensive consumer testing, highlighting a milder flavour and meatier texture. However, public opinion remains divided, with the Scottish Pelagic Fishermen’s Association arguing that retail shifts away from Atlantic mackerel disregard UK industry interests and raise environmental concerns due to the higher carbon footprint of imported jack mackerel.
Regulatory Changes and Industry Impact
Jack mackerel technically belongs to the Carangidae family, different from the traditional mackerel of the Scombridae family. UK labelling laws have been adjusted to accommodate the new market entries following departmental approval. The shift in preference has not only been a topic of national concern but an international one, affecting markets in the Netherlands and Sweden.
The backdrop of this shift is a prolonged dispute dubbed the “mackerel war”, where countries such as the UK, EU members, and others have struggled to agree on sustainable mackerel catch quotas, resulting in catches exceeding recommended limits by 39% over the last 15 years. According to the International Council for the Exploration of the Sea, mackerel stocks have plunged by approximately 75% in the past decade. The suggested remedy involves slashing future catches by 70% to enable recovery.
In response to these severe supply issues, the Marine Conservation Society flagged overfishing as a critical problem, leading some retailers, like Waitrose, to suspend mackerel sales. Meanwhile, the transition to jack mackerel offers a stopgap that adheres to MSC sustainability standards, unlike the now uncertified Atlantic mackerel.
Reporting based on coverage first published by bbc.co.uk.